bigunclejethro Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 I recently installed a set of aftermarket mufflers and deleted the resonator. The car sounds awesome (especially for a V6) but it can be really obnoxious sometimes. I ordered an exhaust cutout valve from QTP with a wireless controller and am planning to stick it inline with my exhaust to silence it as much as I want whenever I want/need to. I'm thinking I will want to put some holes in the valve plate to not completely restrict the flow, but I've never used a cutout before and have no idea how large to drill. Thoughts anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhareFred Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Won't the exhaust cutout valve bypass your muffler system? That won't make it quiet, that's for sure. Maybe I misunderstood your question. Are you going to put the resonators back on and use the valve when you don't care about the noise? I'm a little unclear on what you will be doing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 The resonator is gone, and in its place at the moment I have clamped a piece of straight pipe. What I plan to do is put the valve in where the pipe is. It's wont be tee'd off to anywhere so the exhaust will still go through the mufflers. I found the resonator made the exhaust high pitched and ricery with the mufflers I picked, but taking it off really opens up the noise level and gives the tone I want. I'm just adding an adjustable obstruction in the exhaust line to keep the same tone but adjust the volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Adding back pressure which the computer will adjust for less mpg and reduced performance. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 It wouldn't be any more restrictive than the stock muffler and resonator. I appreciate the comment but the back pressure debate is not what I was going for. Cody Chornobey Powley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) Go for it then. Post up the results. Hope it does not go haywire and close off completely. Personally I think it would be way more restrictive than the stock muffler and resonators. Back pressure be damned I guess. Edited July 15, 2015 by jkeaton webslave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Well the valve came in yesterday and it should be pretty easy to hook everything up so I'm going to go for it. I'm going to make a few different valve plates with varying hole sizes, and start with the largest and see if I can find the right balance between noise and performance. MAP sells a universal damper valve with just a 9/16 hole in it, but that seems way to small to me. I'd be afraid to overtake anyone on the highway with that. If anyone's interested, here's the link. http://www.maperformance.com/map-universal-3-inline-exhaust-damper.html Anyone have a simpler idea? The cost of the valve and controller is less than what my mufflers cost, so I'm not in a rush to take those out. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Kinda like a homemade supertrap muffler. Those ones with the replaceable disks to alter the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Similar concept I suppose. When I find the plate that works the best for me I don't intend on changing it out though. Anyone have any good instructions for removing the center console? Or is there a good place to run the signal wire out for the cutout that I don't have to take anything apart for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 You could run signal wire out of cabin via AC evap drain hole near gas pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 I will look into that. I would like to keep the controller in the console so I can keep an eye on its status but under the dash would work too. I noticed there is a plastic snap in grommet on the inside front of the console. Any idea why that is there any where it goes to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 I will look into that. I would like to keep the controller in the console so I can keep an eye on its status but under the dash would work too. I noticed there is a plastic snap in grommet on the inside front of the console. Any idea why that is there any where it goes to? Yes there is a small port inside the console to enable manual release of the PARK locking solenoid should it become inoperative. I assume that's the one you are referring to. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Every Mopar I have ever owned has a grommet behind the brake pedal that can be drilled through. I use this for my amplifier power runs... Pop it out, drill a hole, put it a grommet and replace. Done deal. Usually pops out just below and inside of the strut tower... I'd check there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 Bigtsr I believe that's the one. Feels like a lever inside the hole but I didn't want to pull it and find out. I will look for this drain plug by the brake pedal. I also noticed behind the stereo down low there is also a grommet that brings out a cable just above the driveshaft. I'm thinking of using this one as it is right where I want to put the wireless controller. Either way, this project is a few weeks off still as I have to put some time and money into my other car at the moment. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 Keeping you guys posted (if anyone is still interested), the wireless controller is installed and I have the switch hidden, but conveniently in reach from the drivers seat. I did not cut into the vehicles wiring, but got a cigarette lighter adapter with a remote extension, cut the extension off and connected the controller to that. This way, if I decide I don't want the valve or want to sell the car or whatever, it will all come out very easily. I'm hoping this week to make up a few valve plates with varying blockages (planning anywhere from 25%-75%), and will have the valve installed hopefully this weekend. I'll report back soon with pictures and results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 The exhaust cutout has been installed and the results aren't as dramatic as I was expecting, but there is a reasonable reduction in cabin noise without a big drop in engine power. I will post images to explain what I've done. So if anyone is still paying attention, stay tuned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I think everyone is reading your posts with the expectation that you will post your conclusions if the exercise proved worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Here are some pictures of what I did. This is what I started with. I removed the resonator a few months ago and clamped in a piece of straight pipe. I didn't know if I would like the noise or not so I filled all around the tube and clamps with a high temp liquid gasket (orange stuff) so I could put the resonator back if I wanted to. I purchased a QTP 2.5" ECV with wireless controller, and wired them up through a cigarette lighter extension (so I didn't have to splice into the cars wiring). This way I could also easily remove everything if I decided to. I put the controller under the heater controls and hid the wiring behind the dash. I cut a section of straight pipe and welded flanges on to match the ECV (don't laugh at my welding, its a bit rough but I don't hear any leaks). This was the first test fit up. Because this is typically used as a cutout, it seals pretty darn good when it's fully shut. So I came up with a relatively simple way of keeping it cracked. I drilled and tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt in the bottom of the valve. I then put the assembly in the car and was able to tune how much restriction the valve caused by bringing the bolt up and down in the ECV housing. I found my happy medium, took the whole thing apart and thread locked and sealed all the threads. This is the result. Not the greatest looking but it can be refined later if needed. I don't have a picture of it but there is one control wire that runs from the controller to the valve. I ran this out through a grommet behind the dash where I think the parking break cable goes, and under the heat shield all the way back to the valve. I'll take a picture of the setup under the car and get some videos in the next few days hopefully. Not a huge difference, but I get between 10 and 15 dB reduction across the board with the valve closed. Still makes a good noise but is much more bearable for long hauls. This will rarely be closed, so I don't expect to see any major differences in fuel economy. Hopefully you can view these pictures, this is the first time I've tried to post any. If not, everything can be found in this album: http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/gallery/album/285-ecv/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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