bfurth Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I've got my first oil change coming up as soon as I have time (vehicle only has 3,200 miles on it, but it's an August 2014 build, so it's time to remove the factory fill). In an effort to avoid damage to the pinch welds as long as humanly possible, I'm goign to construct some pinch weld adapters using regulation hockey pucks (3"x3"x1"). The plan is to use them for both the jack lifting plate (I'm cutting a 3/4" deep groove down the middle of one puck and calling it a day) and for the jack stands (I've got a set of Craftsman stands with no deep groove). Plans for the jack stand adapters: Cut one puck in half, leaving me with two semi-circles of 1" thick hard rubber. Cut a 1" (more exact measurement to be taken against the pinch weld) deep groove in each half (across the long face that used to be the middle of the puck) to slide on top of the pinch weld. Remove the bottom 1/4" from each puck to put a flat surface on the jack stand. Does anyone see any potential safety issues? dhh3 and OlDirty 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) I would think that the positions for jacking would be OK by themselves, since this is the way Dodge designed the DJ. What is your reasoning for doing this? Edited August 3, 2015 by dhh3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I don't want to damage the paint. It's more for cushioning purposes than anything else. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I don't want to damage the paint. It's more for cushioning purposes than anything else. Here is where my ignorance shows - what are hockey puck made of? Are you going to attack the pucks, or think that friction will hold them in place? I do like the idea of not damaging the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 They are very dense rubber. For the jack, it's just going to sit on top of the existing steel plate. Nothing is needed to hold it in place - the mass of the vehicle pushing down on it will do that. For the stand adapters, effectively there will be 1/2" of rubber on each side of the pinch weld as the whole setup sits in the mouth of the jack stand. I'm not permanently attaching them - just putting them in place when I need to have the vehicle off the ground. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 If the surface of the puck is slick, you may want to roughen it up slightly, to avoid any slipping. Just a thought. I do like the idea, but sadly, I can no longer work on my car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 It's not that slick, and for the stands, I'm cutting part of the way through so it surrounds everything. Even with that, I'm pretty sure the coefficient of friction for painted steel is lower than "smooth" vulcanized rubber! dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Here is where my ignorance shows - what are hockey puck made of? Are you going to attack the pucks, or think that friction will hold them in place? I do like the idea of not damaging the paint. Vulcanized rubber... dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thank you. I am enlightened, O Great One. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4ZINGA Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 I actually just purchased a product called In-A-Pinch-Weld, which accomplished the same thing in a specifically-molded rubber product that mimics the pinch-weld receptacle in most vehicle scissor-jacks used for roadside wheel changing. The pinch-weld fits into the slot in the rubber, and adapter holds the pinch-weld straight as opposed to allowing it to collapse one way or the other and cause damage to the body and paint. They offer two versions, one that replaces the jacks metal cup and another that just sits on top of the cup. I bought the version that sits on top of the cup to give extra clearance on my low-ground-clearance vehicle (as it is, my "low-profile" jack crushes the rocker panels under the front doors right where I need to raise the vehicle for tire rotations in one lift). $31 shipped to my door, even with MI sales tax applied to MI residents. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onecrazyfoo4u Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Yeah but there's no paint on the pinch welds??? I don't see any need to do this. Been using my jack stands and floor jack for 3 years and 93k miles without a problem scratching/denting on the DJ. To each their own though... dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4ZINGA Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Yes, there is paint on the pinch welds to keep them from pre-maturely rusting. It isn't bare metal, and when the pinch weld flex and bends the paint flakes/chips/cracks. It can also damage the welds, which damages the body. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 I actually just purchased a product called In-A-Pinch-Weld, which accomplished the same thing in a specifically-molded rubber product that mimics the pinch-weld receptacle in most vehicle scissor-jacks used for roadside wheel changing. The pinch-weld fits into the slot in the rubber, and adapter holds the pinch-weld straight as opposed to allowing it to collapse one way or the other and cause damage to the body and paint. They offer two versions, one that replaces the jacks metal cup and another that just sits on top of the cup. I bought the version that sits on top of the cup to give extra clearance on my low-ground-clearance vehicle (as it is, my "low-profile" jack crushes the rocker panels under the front doors right where I need to raise the vehicle for tire rotations in one lift). $31 shipped to my door, even with MI sales tax applied to MI residents. Judging by the images from their website, it won't work for the Journey. The pinch weld for us is nearly 1" in height. That adapter looks like it's only 1/2" deep maybe. It also only serves for lifting, not something that can be used with jack stands. I'll get photos over the weekend of what I'm making - no one has voiced any safety concernes over the use of vulcanized rubber, and there are several products on the market of similar material. I'm just going to make my own for a total cost of materials of $8 (and an as-yet undetermined amount of time with a hack saw). Hankster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4ZINGA Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Remember that the pinchweld is what you're lifting, not the body. It isn't necessary (and some believe it to be unwise) to have something that comes up to the body and take the weight there. It's also unecessary to make something for the jackstands, since they don't normally go on the pinchweld. Most place them at subframe and framerail points to prevent damage to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlDirty Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I always used a piece of scrap 2x4 with a 3/4" deep slit, about 3/8" wide, cut down the center. Not really deep enough to contact the body, mainly to keep the pinch weld from folding over. Just toss it right on top of the floor jack. I think using a Ol hockey puck would work great! Hey bfurth! how did it work out? Have you tried this? Surely you've had your DJ up in the air since you've originally posted this...ans how did the jack stand adapter work as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfurth Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 The makeshift pinch-weld adapter works pretty well. It also helps that the library system my wife works for has a subscription to All Data DIY (or something else like it) that has full factory service manuals for just about everything - which includes the correct lift points for everything. The real floor jack lift point on the Journey (for anyone who hasn't figured it out yet) is just behind and inside the front wheels, where the front lower control arm attaches to the front cross member - it's a nice big bolt with a cup around it and a few pieces of molded rubber around it to cushion a floor jack saddle. Just put a hockey puck on the saddle and you prevent any paint/powder coat damage. The jack stand/pinch weld adapter is then free to go in exactly the right spot on the weld right at the scissor jack point (if you don't put it on the cross member). Zero paint damage, no bending of the welds. No additional avenue for rust. 2 years in, still looks new. To be fair, I've only had it up twice (each August since I purchased it). I bought mine in February 2015, and I just crossed the 14,000 mile mark this month! OlDirty 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SebasH Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 Hi, I'm willing to buy a lightweith floor jack which elevates to a maximum of 350mm. Can anyone confirm that it is enough height to place the stands under the DJ to do wheels maintenance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted July 7, 2017 Report Share Posted July 7, 2017 to be honest if you have to ask this question you need to have someone do it for you..... good luck jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtomatoman Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 22 hours ago, SebasH said: Hi, I'm willing to buy a lightweith floor jack which elevates to a maximum of 350mm. Can anyone confirm that it is enough height to place the stands under the DJ to do wheels maintenance? I don't know the answer to your question. Why not just check the return policy of the store, keep the receipt, and return/exchange if the 350mm isn't sufficient? That's what I would do. Do you have a torque wrench? Peace. jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SebasH Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 12 hours ago, redtomatoman said: I don't know the answer to your question. Why not just check the return policy of the store, keep the receipt, and return/exchange if the 350mm isn't sufficient? That's what I would do. Do you have a torque wrench? Peace. Thanks. I do have a torque wrench for the job. Unfortunately, the return policy here in Argentina does not allow me to return the item once have been used. However, today I used the standard emergency floor jack and did measure the room space below the body. At least for my model (SE with 16 inch factory tyres) 350 mm is just enough. I'm sorry for the low quality of the image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtomatoman Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Perfect. Good luck with wheel maintenance. I assume that means rotations. . . Enjoy your DJ! Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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