Cdncooler Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I can hear this noise while driving in my front just rattling/crunching a way. What's also weird is my rear wheels seem to have a bigger problem. I feel as if the calipers are trying to engage but can't and gives this awful crunching noise while slowly braking. If I floor the brake at once, the noise is not heard. Anyways I have a video of the noise while the car is stationary and pushing on the sides of the wheel. I will pull the wheels off this weekend (live in an apartment, will go to my friends place) I'm thinking maybe the metal clips that the brakes sit on? Overtorqued lugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 Can only guess at this point. You will have to pull the wheel off and inspect it. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty256 Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) wow you get that sound just pushing on the wheel....rear brake noise might be no pads left and you are metal to metal, are you sure the wheels are on tight ? could be dry ball joints or tie rod ends .. might even be sway bar links too.. going to have to take the tires off and check it out Edited June 20, 2016 by Dusty256 dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) wow you get that sound just pushing on the wheel....rear brake noise might be no pads left and you are metal to metal, are you sure the wheels are on tight ? could be dry ball joints or tie rod ends .. might even be sway bar links too.. going to have to take the tires off and check it out I checked the pads about a month ago, they were fine - lot of material left. Reason I pulled the wheel off then was because my caliper was dragging my wheel due to a broken handbrake. Wheels are on tight, maybe too tight? I will take a look at the suspension at each wheel when I get time. Edited June 20, 2016 by Cdncooler dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Wheel bearings or CV joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Wheel bearings or CV joints. Hey Thanks for the responses. I decided to go ahead and check one of my wheels because I was really tempted to check this out so I had to time to jack up the front left wheel. 2 of the metal clips are missing and that's where, I'm pretty sure, the sound is from. I'm going to place an order for the clips tonight so I can install it on the weekend. I'm good driving for the time being (few days, 10km/day) right? Other than that I believe I will need a new caliper/dust boot, seal as well as seen in these pictures correct? Here are the pictures http://imgur.com/a/mJRNu http://imgur.com/7sU7sjg Edited June 22, 2016 by Cdncooler dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 If it's not leaking fluid, the boot is fine. Don't really want to mess with that anyway unless you are prepared to bleed the brakes. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 If it's not leaking fluid, the boot is fine. Don't really want to mess with that anyway unless you are prepared to bleed the brakes. When I move the boot side to side, I do see liquid around the boot. I have to replace my parking cable at my mechanic's shop anyways, too tedious to do with jacks. I can get my caliper replaced there and bleed the whole system. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Cdncooler, on 22 Jun 2016 - 10:16 AM, said: When I move the boot side to side, I do see liquid around the boot. I have to replace my parking cable at my mechanic's shop anyways, too tedious to do with jacks. I can get my caliper replaced there and bleed the whole system. Sounds like a plan. Good luck! Report back. Edited June 22, 2016 by jkeaton dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty256 Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I've lost a clip before on the front brakes , it cause that pad to lock up eating the pads and rotors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 I've lost a clip before on the front brakes , it cause that pad to lock up eating the pads and rotors... Well if that's the case I'll do it today. Good thing I bought it yesteday! Thanks a lot. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 (edited) So I ended up taking off all four wheels and replacing the metal clips from the calipers. In my front, 2 were missing on each side while my rears had everything. But as I would move the brake pads I can hear the rusty clips so I replaced all of them as well. I checked out the suspension and drive train and pulled on each component making sure they were sturdy. I think my problem might be related to the outer tie road, cv shaft which I just recently did. I also did an alignment a couple weeks later, but I noticed this noise way before that so I'm going to call up my mechanic to get this resolved Edited June 24, 2016 by Cdncooler jkeaton and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 So I took it to my mechanic today and I asked him to test drive it and lift the vehicle up. He confirmed the problem was the CV Shaft itself, not a great aftermarket one (Brand is Empire). I also stupidly threw out my OLD ORIGINAL cv shaft . Now I'm going to have to go through the process of a warranty exchange/return with RockAuto. Thanks for the help guys. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for reporting back. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 that would be one reason i wouldn't but parts from anything over the internet.i had bought cv joints from my local parts dealer (yes they did cost more than the internet )for my daughters caravan and replaced both sides. well 6 months down the road one went bad probably her fault as she is real hard on her caravan as she uses it for her postal route any ways had it towed home took out what was left of the joint took it down to the local advance auto store they replaced it no problems and had the car going in a couple of hours and so far no more problems from that .now the rack and pinion steering is leaking told her that goes to her other mechanic not me...... dhh3 and jkeaton 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdncooler Posted June 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 that would be one reason i wouldn't but parts from anything over the internet.i had bought cv joints from my local parts dealer (yes they did cost more than the internet )for my daughters caravan and replaced both sides. well 6 months down the road one went bad probably her fault as she is real hard on her caravan as she uses it for her postal route any ways had it towed home took out what was left of the joint took it down to the local advance auto store they replaced it no problems and had the car going in a couple of hours and so far no more problems from that .now the rack and pinion steering is leaking told her that goes to her other mechanic not me...... Yeah I'll take it as a learning experience. Some parts better to get locally/dealership even if it costs a little more. jkeaton and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 (edited) Yeah I'll take it as a learning experience. Some parts better to get locally/dealership even if it costs a little more. now if you want oem from the dealership the joints are real expensive here in the us about 400. each got her s for about 96. each but not as good quality but alot cheaper...i kept her old ones thought i might find some one to rebuild them but them days are over for someone local to do it....... Edited June 25, 2016 by 2late4u dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty256 Posted June 25, 2016 Report Share Posted June 25, 2016 had problems when I ordered shocks on line from pep boys , good deal with their discount and free shipping but they sent the wrong shocks . shuch a hassle as I went ahead and used the local parts house to get the correct shocks and now waiting to hear back from pep boys about my refumd dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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