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cai(cold air intake)?


radrob

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  • 3 months later...

lol that would be funny. for right now i put a kn drop in filter but dont really notice a difference. i just put 2magnaflow mufflers on and that helped it out abit. the sound is nice a calm then has a nice tone when driving

Which Magnaflows did you get. I am interested in getting a bit more sound but not much.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm gonna do some exhaust mods, when i get a chance, but I was having a hard time finding a match for cool air, so I'm gonna build one. However till i get the time for that, I did remove the snorkel and swiss cheesed the airbox. Sounds amazing, and noticed a much smoother acceleration

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Added mine on Saturday...drove around and it does sound much better when accelerating! I used a dryer vent hose to attach it to the air scoop at the bottom so it would protrude into the K&N and fitted it through that damn rectangular hole. Pic attached. More in the gallery...

Looks great. Nice job and I'm sure it sounds amazing but that is a SRI (Short Ram Intake).

Cold Air Intakes vs. Short Ram Intakes

Short Ram Intakes (SRI)

Description

An aftermarket SRI is basically a short pipe and filter that replaces the restrictive stock airbox. Usually consists of 1 pipe, a cone filter, appropriate silicone couplings, and adapter plate for the Mass Airflow Sensor(MAS). A coupling would connect one end of the pipe to the throttle body. Another coupling connects the other end of the pipe to the MAS. The MAS would then have an adapter plate to connect the cone filter to the end of the MAS. A hose is supposed to connect the intake pipe to one end of the valve cover. This is to relieve and recirculate some of the oil and pressure buildup within the valve cover.

Power Characteristics

Due to the short length air has to travel to get to the engine cyclinder, throttle response is fast. Unfortunately, that doesn't always mean that you will have power immediately after flooring it. Pipe diameter has a lot to do with it. An intake with smaller piping will have better torque in the low and mid-range while larger piping will have a lazy low to mid-range and have better top-end power. If you want some of your torque, stick with the stock 2.5" diameter piping or stock elbow as part of the sri. If you want to sacrifice low-end for some top-end power, move up to 2.75"-3" intake piping.

Down-sides to a SRI

The fact that the SRI still resides within the engine bay is bad. Reason being, hot air produced by the engine is being sucked into the intake. Hot air robs power as air density is less than as if it were cold. Denser colder air is better for the engine since it will have a higher concentration of oxygen in the same amount of volume. The loss of torque inherent in a SRI is also a bit of down-side. SRI will move the powerband higher meaning you'd have to wait more rpm to hit where your engine will be making good/accelerating power. You're gonna just sit there waiting to hit the powerband at around 4000 rpm. But when you do hit 4000rpm, you will notice a better improvement all the way to redline! The upper half of the RPM range benefits from the easier breathing SRI.

* A SRI is a short length of pipe with the MAS and cone filter attached designed to replace the stock airbox

* Sucks in hot engine bay air (Lose power!)

* Better top-end power

* Better throttle response

* Poorer low to mid-range torque

Cold Air Intakes (CAI)

Description

An aftermarket CAI is composed of maybe 2-3 lengths of bent pipe, appropriate silicone couplers, a cone filter, and an adapter plate for the MAS. A coupling connects a length of pipe to the TB. That pipe is connected to the MAS by another coupling. The MAS is fitted with the adapter plate, and then connected to another length of pipe that routes the filter to either a cool area under the car or behind one of the bumper vents on the side. A hose is supposed to connect the intake pipe to one end of the valve cover. This is to relieve and recirculate some of the oil and pressure buildup within the valve cover.

Power Characteristics

The main characteristic of a CAI is it's torque quality. Due to the length of pipe, air moves faster in a CAI creating better torque from the engine. Although throttle response is sacrificed, due to the fact that air has to travel further to reach the engine cylinder, the torque it produces is well worth it. Also, due to locating air outside the engine bay, a CAI may have better than stock top-end power, but may be a little less exciting than a SRI. Overall, this is normally a better choice intake system and usually makes more horsepower. Piping diameter plays a role here as well. Larger piping will yield better top-end, while smaller piping benefits low to mid-range.

Down-sides to a CAI

Due to it's filter location, a CAI is prone to hydrolock when driving through a deep puddle. Hydrolock is when water is sucked into the engine into the engine cylinder. Since water does not compress like air does, piston connecting rods bend as they try to push up against the water in the cylinder. Some companies sell air-bypass valves that you install in the CAI so it is allowed to suck in air from the valve if the cone filter happens to submerge under water. Due to the CAI design, a lazier top-end is inherent. If you happen to drive in the upper part of the rpm range, you won't find it too exciting. The CAI may make more top-end horsepower than a SRI, but you won't feel it. In some cases, a SRI will make more horsepower in the top-end than a CAI depending on design (though it will lack low to mid-range torque).

* A CAI creates more low-end torque than a SRI

* The filter is located outside the engine bay. Cool air is always available.

* Due to the length of pipe, a CAI suffers in throttle response.

* Due to the length of pipe, a CAI suffers in top-end power.

* Due to filter location, a CAI is prone to hydrolock.

Edited by Rubberdude88
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Thanks for the awesome explaination. This explains so much. I made a homemade intake tube for my G8 that went between my TB and my stock intake box. At the drag strip I was .05 slower in the 60' but I was .13 quicker overall and I gained almost 2 MPH. Lost a little low end torque but gained a decent amount of top end HP to over compensate. Conditions were almost identical both times at the track.

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  • 1 year later...

Has the intake kit 69-2543TTK worked really good for the journey? I ordered one for mine.. Just want to make sure it won't mess up my stuff.. Also.. What did everyone use to fill the rectangle at the bottom?

Edited by jkeaton
profanity.
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but where is the cheapest place to get that K&N short ram intake? Did anyone notice much increase in mpg? Been a while since I modded a car, but I am craving a little more power and better mpg. This thing is a pushover in the power department compared to the Armada I was driving.

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Very true. I see you have/had a Tiburon. That was the first car I modded, and I did that heavily. Use to belong to a forum called newtiburon.com Those were the days modding cars and no kids to tote around.

Edited by mb1134
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  • 3 weeks later...

Jeggs.com claims that this K&N will fit a 3.5L Journey

K&N 71-2545 Blackhawk Cold Air Intake System

I just bought a 2014 3.6L. Are the intakes set up the same way as on the 3.5L? I would really like to get a k&N but I do not want to throw money around and buy something that may not fit. Has anyone had luck with the 3.6L?

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  • 1 month later...

Jeggs.com claims that this K&N will fit a 3.5L Journey

K&N 71-2545 Blackhawk Cold Air Intake System

I just bought a 2014 3.6L. Are the intakes set up the same way as on the 3.5L? I would really like to get a k&N but I do not want to throw money around and buy something that may not fit. Has anyone had luck with the 3.6L?

Make sure you put the K&N sticker on your car, thats where the extra HP comes from. :lol:

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Save your money, your Journey comes with CAI, which induces air from the front. If you want better flow then drop in a new K&N filter. These engines build up lots of heat. There is no way to induce cold air from an engine bay that's well over 200 degrees with an exposed filter? IMO

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Seriously. Folks droppoing stupid amounts of coin to pay for something that does abssolutely nothing but make noise. Sure, I have a CAI on my Eclipse and my truck, but they are the $35 fleabay kind, just cause I like the sound they make. The only way I'd ever buy a name brand is if someone was selling it cheap secondhand, then I'd never pay over $50. IMO :)

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Something I might look into doing is replacing the intake tubes with smooth PVC piping (yep, Home Depot Special) to eliminate those resonator tubes, and try to get the pipe into the OEM airbox so I can use a cone filter in the airbox. That maintains the cooler air, helps add noise, and hopefully increases filter area. I'd have to take measurements to see what fits and if I can actually add that area. I might also simply note the locations of where the hood snorkel and intake tube enter the airbox, then walk around the salvage yard to see if any cars have similar airboxes with more interior volume that can be modified to fit. Not sure on that, since the engine bay is full with the 3.6L. If I had the 2.4L I'd have lots of room, but I'd also have many fewer smiles per gallon...

The guy that made the custom intake for my 300M also offers a version that does the same thing, putting the cone filter into the OEM airbox. I went with the heat shield since his heat shield design actually does a much better job of sectioning the engine bay off than the K&N design does, and allows the intake to grab air from the fenderwell, the battery cover vents, and from the headlight.

And makes it loud when I romp it, especially in tunnels. Yes I am a child. No I will not grow up. =D

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