Journey_SeXT

Yah, that I would imagine will be a major uphill battle to get a warranty claim on as most (if not all) dealers will use any excuse possible to say the issue is not from the paint but caused by a stone chip, salt or whatever. I hope the OP gets a resolution to this issue.

It's too bad this is not like the other forum I frequent where they went with a new format but you still have the option to switch back to the classic format.

Rock Auto has always been a great option for me as most parts I need they offer both genuine and aftermarket.

Mine came in too!!

Yes it is.

2.4L The Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the rear of the engine block near the transmission. Remove the engine cover (1). JS GAS AIR BOX Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner body (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal)(Refer To List 1). Disengage the upstream O2 sensor wire harness retainer (1) and crankshaft position sensor wire harness retainer (2) from the heat shield (3). Remove one nut (1) and two heat shield retaining bolts (2). Remove heat shield (3). SENSOR LOCATION Remove the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt. Remove sensor with the wire harness attached. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector from the crankshaft position sensor. 2.4L The Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the rear of the engine block near the transmission. Remove the engine cover (1). JS GAS AIR BOX Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner body (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal)(Refer To List 1). Disengage the upstream O2 sensor wire harness retainer (1) and crankshaft position sensor wire harness retainer (2) from the heat shield (3). Remove one nut (1) and two heat shield retaining bolts (2). Remove heat shield (3). SENSOR LOCATION Remove the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt. Remove sensor with the wire harness attached. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector from the crankshaft position sensor.

I would have loved it if shortly after they crushed the vehicle that FCA made a TV news announcement explaining about this couples problems and how they would like to make things right by having them drive their DJ to one of their dealerships where they will fix all of their issues free of charge!!

I had an Altima 2 years ago and and a Camry last year as my Florida rentals and I wasn't impressed with either but did like the Altima over the Camry....this year I'm driving my DJ down to Florida so I expect it to be an enjoyable drive.

REMOVAL NOTE Before proceeding, (Refer to Front Suspension/Front - Warning). Remove the engine appearance cover. COWL TOP SCREEN Remove the two push-pins (1) securing the cowl top screen at the ends. Remove the remaining push-pins (2). Remove the cowl top screen (3). Remove the wiper arms. (Refer to Electrical/8R - Wipers/Washers/ARM, Wiper - Removal) COWL SCREEN Remove the push-pins (1) securing the cowl screen to the wheelhouse brace and cowl. Rotate the screw (2) in the center of the cowl screen 90° clockwise to release the screen. Remove the cowl screen (3). Raise and support the vehicle. (Refer to Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING Remove the wheel mounting nuts (3), then the tire and wheel assembly (1). NOTE If both strut assemblies are to be removed, mark the strut assemblies right or left and keep the parts separated to avoid mix-up. Not all parts of the strut assembly are interchangeable side-to-side. BRAKE HOSE MOUNTING TO STRUT Remove the screw (1) securing the flex hose (2) routing bracket to the strut (6). STRUT MOUNTING TO KNUCKLE While holding the stabilizer bar link (1) stud stationary, remove the nut (4) securing the link to the strut (3). CAUTION The strut assembly-to-knuckle attaching bolts (5) are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the knuckle while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch. While holding the bolt heads stationary, remove the two nuts (2) from the bolts (5) attaching the strut (3) to the knuckle (6). Remove the two bolts (5) attaching the strut (3) to the knuckle (6) using a pin punch. Lower the vehicle just enough to open the hood without allowing the tires to touch the floor. STRUT UPPER MOUNTING NUTS Remove the three nuts (1) attaching the strut assembly (2) upper mount to the strut tower. Remove the strut assembly (2) from the vehicle. For disassembly, (Refer to Front Suspension/Front/STRUT, Suspension - Disassembly).

Probably leaking because they reused the clamps which should have been replaced with new. Not a big deal but an inconvenience for sure.

Any oil that meets Chrysler spec MS-6395 is OK to use....Your owners manual will list the recommended grade to use. For my DJ I use any synthetic oil that goes on special but any conventional or syn-blend that meets the standard is acceptable too.

I believe that if you are altering the performance of your exhaust system with an aftermarket then yes it probably will void your exhaust warranty but not everything else that is warrantied in the car unless the dealer can prove that damage is due to the exhaust modification. You may want to check with the dealer what your options are.

I believe this is the TSB. #09-002-14 REV. B Dec_15_2014.pdf

I'm still on the original battery with my 2011.

I will be changing both my coolant and transmission fluid soon and I am just passed 100,000 km / 60,000 miles. I just checked my Transmission fluid the other day and it is still in good shape with good color and no burnt smell. I would suggest that you check your fluid too so you aren't changing it out when it is dark and not recommended to switch it out. EDIT: I just noticed you have a 2014 2late4U so I think you are still awhile away from a tranny fluid change but still doesn't hurt to check it.